Ballast, capacitor and starter replacement, as well as lighting maintenance, present the possibility of exposure to potentially hazardous voltages and should be performed only by qualified personnel. All installation, inspection and maintenance should be performed only with the entire circuit power to the fixture or equipment turned off.

All ballast components and fixtures must be installed and operated in compliance with the National Electrical Code (NEC), requirements of Underwriters Laboratories, Inc. (UL), and all applicable codes and regulations. This includes, but is not limited to, proper grounding of ballasts, components and fixtures as well as prescribed branch and total circuit protection.

Introduction to HID Lighting

"High Intensity Discharge" (HID) is a broad term used to describe any lighting system using a gaseous discharge arc lamp in which the gas-filled arc tube operates at several times the normal atmospheric pressure compared to the near vacuum conditions in fluorescent lamps. The various types of HID lamps are categorized and named by the type of gas contained within the arc tube.

The electrical arc produced between the two main electrodes of a HID lamp is much like a runaway short circuit, which can be sustained indefinitely. Once sufficient voltage is present, the gases within the arc tube are "ionized" to where they will conduct the arc current. Arc formation is not an immediate process. It can take several seconds for the arc to be established, and several minutes until full light output is reached.

HID lamps are a negative impedance device. This means that unless controlled, the current would continue to increase, causing the lamp to fail almost instantly after starting. For this reason, a ballast, which is a current-limiting device, must be used with every HID lamp. The ballast serves three functions. It provides the proper starting voltage to establish the arc. Second, it supplies the proper voltage to operate the lamp. Third, the ballast limits the lamp current to a level prescribed by the lamp manufacturer for the particular type of lamp being used. Ballasts must always be matched to the particular lamp type, wattage, and line voltage being used. Never use a ballast for any lamp, installation or purpose other than for which it has been specifically designed.

The ionization voltage of all HID lamps increases greatly when the lamp is hot. If power to the lamp is interrupted, the lamp must be allowed to cool for a time, usually several minutes, before the arc can be reestablished and normal operation resumed. For this reason, some ballasts are available with a tap to operate a standby, or auxiliary, incandescent lamp through an appropriate interface device. The 120-volt lead on a dual-, tri-, and multi-voltage ballast can be used as a tap for standby lighting when a higher line voltage supplies the ballast. For some ballast lamp combinations, an instant restrike starter is available. Please refer to Universal Lighting Technologies’s HID catalog for instant restrike starters and important notes.

Can a Mercury Vapor ballast be used with a Metal Halide lamp?

No; a Mercury Vapor ballast can not be used with a Metal Halide lamp. This is not a UL listed and tested combination. This may result in early lamp and/or ballast failure. The opposite is true; a Metal Halide ballast (175 Watts and above) is capable of running an equivalent wattage Mercury Vapor lamp. The exception to the above is the new Pulse-Start Metal Halide lamps which require a starter/ignitor. Always refer to the ballast label for the lamp types the ballast is capable of running.

Can a High-Pressure Sodium (HPS) lamp be used from a Metal Halide ballast of the equivalent wattage? (150 watts and less)

No; the lamp starting voltages of the two types are different. This again is not a UL listed and tested combination. Refer to ballast label for correct lamp types. This may result in early lamp and or ballast failure.

Can I use a Universal Lighting starter with a competitors ballast?

Universal Lighting does not suggest mixing manufactures starters/ignitors and ballast, due to possible voltage differences powering the starter/ignitors. Due to this Universal Lighting would not be able to guarantee proper operation of the starter.

How can I check a capacitor to see if is good or not?

A number of modern multimeters are equipped with a capacitance checker. If the meter is not, follow this procedure. Disconnect the capacitor, discharge the capacitor. Using an ohmmeter on its highest scale connected across the capacitor terminals. If the meter reads low resistance initially and increases, the capacitor is good. If the meter reads low resistance and does not change, the capacitor is shorted and must be replaced. If the meter reads high resistance and does not change the capacitor is open and must be replaced. Be sure to check for and correct abnormal conditions such as high ambient temperature, incompatibility, etc., which may have caused or contributed to capacitor failure, or caused the capacitor’s internal protector to activate.

Can I use a Universal Lighting Technologies capacitor with a competitors ballast?

Yes; as long as the capacitance values and voltage ratings are the same. Capacitance is measured in Farads, for example a Universal Lighting 400 Watt Metal Halide ballast requires a 24 Micro-Farad capacitor with a minimum Voltage Alternating Current (VAC) rating of 360. Voltage ratings less than suggested can result in early capacitor failure and possible lamp failure.

My Metal Halide (or Mercury Vapor) lamps are giving off a blue or pink light (low light).

This may be a lamp near end of life, a capacitor near end of life or an incorrect capacitor (Micro-Farad’s). If this is a new lamp it may possibly be a defective lamp. Replacing the lamp is the quickest troubleshooting measure. If the light color is correct the problem is solved, if not replacing the capacitor is the next corrective action. The last measure is replacement of the ballast.

Why are my High Pressure Sodium lamps are cycling on and off?

This is a normal end-of-life indication. As the lamp accumulates burning hours, its operating voltage increases, and eventually becomes higher than the voltage supplied by the ballast. The lamp extinguishes and cools, the ballast then restrikes the lamp and the process repeats itself. Replacement of the lamp will correct this problem. A lamp left in this cycling condition can cause early starter and ballast failure. Another possibility is that a defective new lamp will produce the same affect.

I am remote mounting a ballast that requires a starter but the distance exceeds the maximum stated in your catalog, can I place the starter in the fixture and the ballast in its remote location?

No; the starter has a connection that is from the secondary of the ballast, this connection is of a precise voltage and timing. If a starter were placed in this manner the timing of the voltage to it would not arrive at the correct time and result in not striking the arc of the lamp.

Can I remote mount a Metal Halide or Mercury Vapor ballast?

Yes, please refer to our HID catalog for remote mounting distances and wire gage sizes.

Does Universal Lighting Technologies offer "Cobra Head" ballasts?

This term "Cobra Head" is associated with street lighting; the appearance of the fixture resembles that of the head of the Cobra snake. This fixture does not require any specialized ballast aside from size constraints. Knowing the lamp type, ballast type i.e. Core & Coil etc… and size, a Universal Lighting rep can recommend the proper Universal Lighting ballast.

Does Universal Lighting Technologies offer any "J" box ballasts?

Unfortunately Universal Lighting does not offer ballasts of this type. These ballasts are enclosed in a box with a threaded nipple for direct connection into a junction box, hence the name "J" box ballast.

I have a three (3) phase 208 volt supply line, how do I wire it to your ballast?

Three (3) phase systems contain two (2) "HOT" wires and one (1) common wire. One of the HOT wires is to be connected to the appropriate voltage tap (208, 240 or 480), the other HOT is to be connected to the common (Yellow) of the ballast, and the line common is to be used as the ground connection of the ballast and fixture.

What ballast circuit types does Universal Lighting Technologies offer, and what are the differences?

Universal Lighting offers several ballast circuit designs; this will list the different types and there advantages.

Reactor (R) The lag reactor is the simplest, smallest, most efficient and most economical type of ballast. Reactor type ballasts may only be used when line voltage is relatively stable and at least 10percent higher than the rated lamp starting voltage. Reactors are generally used as normal power factor devices. Their highest current draw occurs during starting which must be allowed for in the capacity of the line. The line current can be lowered by using a capacitor across the line to achieve a high power factor of over 90 percent allowing more ballasts per circuit.

High Reactance Autotransformer (HX) This type of lag circuit consists of primary and secondary coils forming a one-piece unit. These are similar in operating characteristics to reactors but are generally used to increase the line voltage when it is lower than the level required for starting the lamp. By adding a capacitor across the primary coil (or across an extra capacitor winding) the system attains a power factor of over 90 percent (HX-HPF instead of HX-NPF).

Constant Wattage Autotransformer (CWA) This lead circuit is the most commonly used in high intensity discharge lighting as it provides an economical means of providing stabilized light output (lamp regulation) as opposed to the lag circuits previously discussed. It is particularly recommended in installations where the line voltage fluctuations are greater than + - 5 percent, but not greater than + - 10 percent. A 10 percent decrease in line voltage will give only a 5 percent decrease in lamp watts. This is much better than the regulation characteristics of other ballast types. The circuit consists of a high reactance autotransformer with a capacitor in series with the lamp resulting in a high power factor ballast. A CWA ballast also has a significantly lower dropout voltage (the voltage at which the lamp extinguish) than the lag types.

Constant Wattage Isolated (CWI) This inherently high power factor ballast has its primary and secondary coils isolated electrically but otherwise performs similarly to the CWA circuit. This type of circuit is required when two lamps are connected in series and both lampshells are grounded.

What is the difference between the R-NPF and the R-HPF ballasts?

The R stands for a Reactor type ballast, the NPF stands for Normal Power Factor. The R-HPF is a High Power Factor ballast. The greatest impact of power factor is the fact that line current is minimized with High Power Factor ballasts. This maximizes the number of fixtures that can be installed on a circuit and minimizes wiring costs.

Normal Power Factor ballast draws higher line current and loads your circuits and those of the utility. (Sometimes it also results in a penalty charge from the utility.) Because Normal Power Factor ballasts require up to twice the line current of High Power Factor ballasts, there will be fewer fixtures on a fully loaded circuit, which increases wiring costs.

How can I test a Metal Halide or Mercury Vapor ballast?

To test a metal halide or mercury vapor (175 watts or greater) ballast, the first and quickest is installing a known good lamp, if the lamp lights the problem is corrected. If the lamp does not light and previous supply circuit checks do not reveal any problems, replacement of the ballast and capacitor is necessary.

How can I test a ballast and starter in a high-pressure sodium fixture?

Installing a known good lamp is the first and quickest test, if the lamp lights the problem is corrected. If the lamp does not light, disconnect the starter and install the specified TEST LAMP. If the TEST LAMP lights, the ballast is good and the starter needs to be replaced. If the TEST LAMP does not light, the ballast is inoperative. Replace the ballast, to insure optimal performance replace the capacitor and starter as well.

TEST LAMPS for HPS BALLAST ONLY

35 watt to 150 watt (55 volt, S55 lamp) - 120 volt incandescent lamp of equal or greater wattage.

150 watt (100-volt S56 lamp) to 1000 watt – mercury vapor lamp of comparable wattage.

TEST LAMPS ARE TO BE USED FOR TEST ONLY. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE THEM FOR CONTINUOUS OPERATION.

What is the normal temperature limits of the ballasts that Universal Lighting Technologies produces?

The normal temperature limits of Universal Lighting ballasts are as follows; Encased & Potted, maximum case temperature: 90 degrees Celsius (C). Postline Ballasts, maximum case temp: 90 degrees C. Weatherproof Ballasts, maximum case temp: 90 degrees C. Core & Coil Ballasts, Insulation system: Class H 180 degree’s C, maximum coil temp: 165 degrees C (measured by change of resistance method). Potted Core & Coil Ballasts, Insulation system: Class H 180 degree’s C, maximum coil temp: 165 degrees C (measured by change of resistance method). Indoor Encased, maximum case temp: 90 degrees C.

The minimum starting temperatures for Universal Lighting ballasts are as follows all Metal Halide and Mercury Vapor ballast types –30 degrees C. All High Pressure Sodium ballast types –40 degrees C.

I’m remote mounting several Universal Lighting Technologies Encased & Potted ballasts, are there any special mounting guidelines?

As noted above a ballast like any other electrical device generates heat during normal operation. Planning for maximum heat dissipation will minimize the possibility of a heat related problem. Excessive temperature will have an adverse effect on ballast life (a temperature rise of 10 degree’s C can result in a 50 percent reduction in ballast life). This elevated temperature could occur without tripping the thermal protector.

The mounting surface must be grounded in accordance with NEC and local codes. The area must have adequate air circulation. The ballasts should be mounted with a MINIMUM DISTANCE OF 6 INCHES (greater is better) between ballasts. If the ballasts are to be mounted in a vertical position they should be staggered such that the rising heat would have a minimum affect on the ballast above. The lead wires should also be at the top. Universal Lighting has optional accessories (refer to HID catalog for catalog numbers) for Encased & Potted ballast such as a Mounting Bracket Assemblies, that will raise the ballast off the mounting surface for air circulation, Tee-Pee Lead Wire Cover and Splice Box to comply with NEC for exposed ballast leads.